“Surfing is a life path. You have to really commit... You have to let go and have faith that it's gonna work out when you take off.”

“Surfing is a life path. You have to really commit... You have to let go and have faith that it's gonna work out when you take off.”

“A lot of my nonfiction is very strong environmental stories - I was the first guy to write about the dolphin killings in Japan.”

“I write a lot of environmental stories.”

“Surfing is a life path. You have to really commit... You have to let go and have faith that it's gonna work out when you take off.”

“Nobody, not even artists, understood art. What speed has to do with it. How much work it takes, year after year, building the skills, the trust in the process, more work probably than any Olympic athlete ever puts in because it is twenty-four hours a day, even in dreams, and then when the skills and the trust are in place, the best work usually takes the least effort. Usually, it comes fast, it comes without thought, it comes like a horse running you over at night. But. Even if people understand this, they don't understand that sometimes it is not like that at all. Because the process has always been: craft, years and years; then faith; then letting go. But now, sometimes the best work is agony. Pieces put together, torn apart, rebuilt. Doubt in everything that has been learned, terrible crisis of faith, the faith that allowed it all to work. Oh God. And even then, through this, if you survive the halting pace and the fever, sometimes you make the best work you have ever made. That is the part none of us understand.”

“Within and within. Dreaming. How we gentle our losses into paler ghosts.”

“He's a cocky SOB. He knew the Nick Adams Stories. Probably a frustrated English major who graduated from college qualified to drive a cab.”

“The reason people are so moved by art and why artists tend to take it all so seriously is that if they are real and true they come to the painting with everything they know and feel and live, and all the things they don't know, and some of the things they hope, and they are honest about them all and put them on the canvas. What can be more serious?”

“Pursuing fun is exhausting. Having fun is just fun. Much more relaxing just to do your work, don't you think? I mean if you enjoy it.”

“When we are most scared is the time to summon our clearest concentration and move forward, not back.”

“There might not be a measure of happiness left in a life, but there could be beauty and grace and endless love.”